Quality Products for Finishing and Refinishing
If you are looking for help with a refinishing problem, we may have already provided a solution for somebody else. If after scanning the list below you don't find an answer, please don't hesitate to call us at 1-800-321-9870 or email Nancy at our Customer Service Department
GENERAL QUESTIONS
G-1. Where can I find Zip-Strip and Zip-Guard products?
G-2. Where can I get a copy of The Star Bronze Refinishing Guide?
G-3. Where can I obtain Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) for Star Bronze products?
REMOVER QUESTIONS
R-1. Which Zip-Strip Paint and Finish Remover is best for stripping a factory finish?
R-2. How do I neutralize residue from Zip-Strip Remover on wood prior to applying new finish?
R-3. Is it possible to strip veneer?
R-4. Which of your products works best to remove a varnish and stain?
R-5. Do you have a product that can remove the stain but not the finish from an antique?
R-6. Why should I buy the Original Formula Zip-Strip if the Industrial Strength is stronger?
R-7. Can I use Zip-Strip that I've had on hand for a while?
R-8. After stripping white paint, there is still a light haze on the wood. What do I do?
R-9. Can I use Zip-Strip on particleboard (medium density fiberboard)?
R-10. Will Zip-Strip affect the glue in the joints of my furniture?
R-11. Can I use Zip-Strip to remove milk paint?
R-12. Can I use Zip-Strip on other surfaces besides wood?
R-13. What should I do if I can't get the lid off the remover?
FINISH QUESTIONS
F-1. Is there a difference between urethane and polyurethane?
F-2. Is there a wood finish that doesn't yellow?
F-3. Is it necessary to use a sanding sealer before finishing with Zip-Guard?
F-4. Do I have to sand between coats of finish?
F-5. Which finish is tougher, water-borne or oil-based?
F-6. Can I just apply a new coat of Zip-Guard over my old dull-looking floors?
F-7. How many coats of finish do I need?
GENERAL ANSWERS
G-1. Where can I find Zip-Strip and Zip-Guard products?
Our Zip-Strip Paint and Finish Removers and Zip-Guard Wood Stains and Urethane Finishes are carried by most Ace, True Value, and Do It Best stores, as well as many other fine retailers. If your dealer doesn't have a Star Bronze item in stock, they may be able to order it. Specific links under each product on our web site will give you a better idea of which stores carry which products. For more assistance locating a dealer, call us toll free at 1-800-321-9870 or email our Customer Service Department. You can also click here to purchase online.
G-2. Where can I get a copy of The Star Bronze Refinishing Guide?
You can click here to download a PDF version of our Refinishing Guide. To view, print, or save the PDF file you will need Reader software, available free from Adobe. You can also call us at 1-800-533-9332 or email our Customer Service Department and request a free copy of our guide to be mailed to you. Be sure to include your mailing address.
G-3. Where can I obtain Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) for Star Bronze products?
MSDS for all of our products can be downloaded from our web site. Links can be found on each specific product page or click here to access our main MSDS page. The MSDS files are in PDF format and require the Acrobat Reader to view, which can be downloaded free of charge from Adobe. Hard copies of MSDS can also be requested by calling toll free 1-800-321-9870 or email our Customer Service Department.
REMOVER ANSWERS
R-1. Which Zip-Strip Paint and Finish Remover is best for stripping a factory finish?
It depends on what you are trying to accomplish. If you just want to spruce up the finish and not take it down to the bare wood you would use Zip-Strip Refinisher. It has an evaporation deterrent that allows it to work more slowly, giving you more control over how much finish you remove. If you want to completely redo the object, removing all the finish, then you would use Zip-Strip Economy Strength to strip down to bare wood.
R-2. How do I neutralize residue from Zip-Strip Remover on wood prior to applying new finish?
Unlike most other strippers, Zip-Strip Removers leave no residue that requires neutralizing. However, if you desire, you can use either water or paint thinner to rinse the surface after you have removed all the finish and remover. Please note that the use of water will raise the grain of the wood, and require additional sanding prior to applying stain and finish.
R-3. Is it possible to strip veneer?
You can strip veneer with a remover or restore the finish with refinisher. You must be careful not to gouge the veneer with the scraper, or if you use steel wool not to rub too vigorously as you do not want to scrub through the veneer if it is thin.
R-4. Which of your products works best to remove a varnish and stain?
Any of our strippers will remove varnish. Zip-Strip will usually remove some of the stain after 5-10 minutes, or you may want to try a solution of one part household bleach to eight parts Zip-Strip. Let it work for 10 -15 minutes and then scrub with steel wool in the direction of the grain. For darker stains or deeper penetration you will have to sand the wood down to its natural color.
R-5. Do you have a product that can remove the stain but not the finish from an antique?
No, it's impossible for a remover to remove the stain from underneath the original finish without removing the finish. Removers are made to remove several layers and can't stop between layers.
R-6. Why should I buy the Original Formula Zip-Strip if the Industrial Strength is stronger?
Zip-Strip Original Formula Paint and Clear Finish Remover (72000) is the work-horse of our line. If your project is not extra difficult (such as removing 2 part epoxy), the Original Formula should work fine, and it will cost you less.
R-7. Can I use Zip-Strip that I've had on hand for a while?
Zip-Strip will retain its effectiveness for some time even though it will begin to lose strength after it's exposed to air and its solvents begin to evaporate. You can try it, but if it has been opened, it may no longer work.
R-8. After stripping white paint, there is still a light haze on the wood. What do I do?
If light sanding takes the haze off it would be advisable to do so. If sanding doesn't do the trick, then the white paint has not been completely removed. You will need to recoat with Zip-Strip remover and use steel wool and paper towels to work on the project again. Dip the steel wool into the stripper, scrub the area and wipe clean with paper towels.
R-9. Can I use Zip-Strip on particleboard (medium density fiberboard)?
Fiberboard can be difficult to strip because it's so porous, but Zip-Strip will not cause chipping or swelling. I would suggest using the Original Formula Zip-Strip. Try a small area about the size of a dollar bill. See how it works before applying to a large area.
R-10. Will Zip-Strip affect the glue in the joints of my furniture?
Zip-Strip or any remover can attack glue if it comes into long term contact with it. When removing finishes, the stripper may seep into the joints, but it should not have a detrimental effect unless it is repeatedly applied to the area in large quantities. Careful is the guide word.
R-11. Can I use Zip-Strip to remove milk paint?
Milk paint, made from a base of sour milk, was used long ago because of the availability of milk. More recently it's been used to recreate this type of traditional coating for authenticity. Because it does not have a solvent-soluble base, chemical removers will not work on it. However, household ammonia will soften the paint and you should be able to scrape it off.
R-12. Can I use Zip-Strip on other surfaces besides wood?
Zip-Strip Paint and Finish Removers can safely be used on many different surfaces besides wood, including metal, chrome, plaster, concrete and masonry, glass and porcelain, and leather. We hear of many customers successfully using Zip-Strip on some unexpected projects, like brass instruments and die-cast toy cars like Hot Wheels®. If there is any question, test on an inconspicuous area first.
R-13. What should I do if I can't get the cap off the remover?
The child resistant caps on our Zip-Strip removers and solvents can be difficult to take off, especially after they have been machine torqued very tightly to prevent leakage. If you have trouble, first make sure the white cap is on straight by smacking the lid firmly with the palm of your hand. Then turn the cap while pushing down at the same time. If this does not work, try using Channel Lock® style or adjustable pliers to tightly grip and turn the cap.
After numerous attempts to remove the child resistant cap, it may become stripped so it no longer grips the metal lid underneath. If this happens you must remove the white cap by carefully popping it off with a screwdriver, taking care not to pop it back into your face or body. You may then remove the remaining metal lid. It's always a good idea to cover the cap with a cloth as you slowly turn it to safely release any pent-up pressure.
FINISH ANSWERS
F-1. Is there a difference between urethane and polyurethane?
While a urethane and polyurethane are generally known as the same product and used for the same purposes, individual formulas do make a difference. We use the term "urethane" to set our outstanding quality Zip-Guard wood finish apart from the many polyurethanes that are on the market. In addition, some polyurethanes cannot be used over varnishes and shellacs, but our oil-based urethane can, following the information on the label.
F-2. Is there a wood finish that doesn't yellow?
No matter what product you use, it will eventually yellow with age. But by starting out with our Zip-Guard water-borne finish you will have a head start on the yellowing process. Unlike our oil-based finish which derives its soft amber color from resins, Zip-Guard water-borne dries crystal clear.
F-3. Is it necessary to use a sanding sealer before finishing with Zip-Guard?
The first coat of Zip-Guard acts as a sealer, so the added step of applying a sanding sealer isn't necessary. Besides, many sanding sealers contain stearates, which prevent good bonding of the finish to the surface.
F-4. Do I have to sand between coats of finish?
If you're not sanding betweens coats of Zip-Guard finish, you need to be sure to recoat after the previous coat dries but before it cures for good adhesion. Zip-Guard oil-based urethane finish dries in two or three hours, and water-borne Zip-Guard finish dries in less than an hour in optimum conditions. Both finishes cure in about 24 hours.
F-5. Which finish is tougher, water-borne or oil-based?
Durability depends on where you'll be using the finish. Zip-Guard oil-based urethane is more resistant to water, grease, detergents, and sunlight, so it's excellent for use in a kitchen, for example. Zip-Guard water-borne urethane wears better under traffic and impacts, so it would be great in a hall or on stairs. But regardless of your choice, both types offer superior durability over lacquers, shellacs, varnishes, and polyurethanes.
F-6. Can I just apply a new coat of Zip-Guard over my old dull-looking floors?
Make sure the floors are clean and free of wax build-up. Then you can lightly sand, vacuum and clean with a tack rag to remove any dust, and put on a new coat of finish. If you are not sure what type of finish is already on the floor use Zip-Guard oil-based urethane, which is more compatible with older finishes. Zip-Guard water-borne may not adhere well to lacquer or shellac.
F-7. How many coats of finish do I need?
Two factors determine how many coats of finish you should apply: the porosity of the wood, and the wear the finish will endure. Porous or absorbent woods like pine tend to soak up more finish before they seal and a protective finish accumulates on the surface of the wood. Such soft woods require more coats than hard woods like oak. And obviously you'd want to apply more protection to a heavily-trafficked floor than to the shelves in a china cabinet. In these examples, the shelves would take two, a pine floor as many as four.
Questions?
We have Answers!